The midlife man’s guide to covering grey hairs
Every time I contemplate my ever-greying locks, which as the years roll by have gone from what was a ‘distinguished sweep’ to an all-over snowy affair, I’m reminded of one image that prevents me from reaching for a solution. It’s of Donald Trump’s favourite attack dog Rudy Giuliani attempting to give a speech back in 2020, his hair dye leaking down his face and streaking across his collar.
Perhaps I had more time to get used to it than the 80-year-old Giuliani; I started showing flecks of silver in my early 20s (it’s tough up north), but opting to dye one’s hair as a man is still controversial. Which is odd, as it’s entirely standard practice for women and, as the men’s grooming industry boom has shown, men care more than ever about looking good. So how should you tackle it (if indeed you want to)?
Be wary of DIY
It isn’t simply a case of reaching for the Just For Men and hoping for the best, according to Amy Fish, colourist at Larry King Hair, although that is a very convenient way to deal with greying: ‘The most natural way to incorporate some colour into your hair is to blend what’s there and already grey with a hint of colour, rather than an all-over effect.’ Fish recommends dyeing around 40 per cent of the hair and keeping the rest natural so that the new tones blend more harmoniously with your snowier patches. Men’s hair is often shorter than women’s, meaning that dye covers a relatively small amount of the strand before it grows out – so trying to pretend those greys don’t exist at all can be futile. Better to just minimise the grey but blend expertly.
Go for a subtle tone
An obvious one, but it only takes one look at the likes of the late Silvio Berlusconi to note the stark difference between
a rather weathered visage and overly dark hair that’s as freshly painted as a garden fence. Fish advises going back to what your hair colour was originally, but cautions that men’s hair generally has more ‘warmth’ to its tone than women’s, so if you were naturally blond or red-headed, temper it with a more ashy shade to ensure it doesn’t go too nicotine-yellow.
Keep things short
As someone blessed with an abundance of thick hair, I can attest that, as it greys, it’s essential to keep it short. Anything else means it’s wiry and unkempt, progressing from a sort of George Clooney raffishness to Stig of the Dump fairly rapidly. Also stay mindful of other hirsute matters about your face; if you’ve got any form of beard or stubble or eyebrows that are as white as snow, these will be highlighted against your newly coloured hair. You can use a discreet product to darken the beard or paint your eyebrows if you’re so inclined, but if in doubt, keep facial hair trimmed and neat.
Don’t go back to black
All over black can look heavy and artificial, and does no favours for your complexion – especially as you age, when the overall effect is a somewhat deathly pallor. But similarly, don’t be tempted to dye yourself all grey in an effort to ‘rip off the Band-Aid’. ‘You’ll have to first bleach the hair to apply the grey colour, and it’ll remove the pigment,’ says Fish. ‘Once the hair grows in, it’ll be even more obvious.’
As for my own journey into the grey unknown, watch this space.
Try these...
L’Oréal Professionnel Silver Shampoo and Conditioner Duo, £32.50, Look Fantastic
War Paint For Men Beard and Brow Filler, £12, War Paint
Patricks M2 Matte Finish Medium Hold Styling Product, £38, Patricks