The ultimate capsule wardrobe: the only 20 items you’ll ever really need

A capsule wardrobe is the kind of thing that most of us chalk up as a nice idea, but not one that is actually achievable in the real world. The need for outfits for different occasions, seasons and moods seems to dictate against a wardrobe stripped back to its bare bones.

But what if you could pare the chaos back to a lean, considered edit of only the items you need? Having bare rail between hangers sounds fantastically cathartic, and not needing to wade through a tidal wave of ill-fitting or unloved clothes every time you get dressed sounds dreamy.

Annmarie O’Connor, author of The Happy Closet, says 20 items is the magic number: one coat, three jackets, five bottoms, five tops, one dress, five pairs of shoes. Jess Cartner-Morley spoke to her, alongside other experts, for their tips on investing in a chic wardrobe that covers all the essentials. And, below, we’ve edited the infinite choices out there to show the most universal version of what that might look like. But first, remember: even the chicest, most laser-focused wardrobe will fall flat if you don’t first commit to the idea that less stuff equals more ease. Guardian Fashion

Coat

Made from hard-wearing wool, this coat is available in five tasteful shades, from black through navy and grey to beige. The belt offers the option of adding some shape if the mood dictates, while the oversized fit will work over any outfit.

Buy: £225 stories.com

Blazer

The experts agree that a black, single-breasted blazer is a must in any capsule wardrobe. This tailored version would cut a fine shape in the office or at a party.

Buy: £198 reiss.com

Raincoat

Let’s be real, you need one coat that will stand up to a downpour. This smart but versatile belted design, available in olive, navy and black, will work as well for a trudge to work as for walking the dog. Bonus points for being cut and sewn in the UK.

Buy: £199 communityclothing.co.uk

Smart, Chanel-esque jacket

A chameleon, a Chanel-esque jacket will morph depending on your style and mood. This Mango version comes in understated black, brown and ecru, as well as a less-than-minimal firehose red.

Buy: £79.99 shop.mango.com

Classic cigarette pants

One of two pairs of smarter trousers, as suggested by O’Connor, the cigarette is a chic, timeless cut that will work as well for more formal work days as for a weekend lunch.

Buy: £140 jigsaw-online.com

Wider leg trousers with belt loops

The slouchy fit works well for a more relaxed look, while the belt loops give the option of formalising. The experts agree that colour is to be applied sparingly in a capsule wardrobe – and the beige and black are in keeping with that, but the apple green version could add a rare pop.

Buy: £29.99 zara.com

Cargo pants

Able to span work-casual and a more chilled weekend feel, these cargo trousers mean business. As they are made from organic brushed cotton, practicality doesn’t have to mean a lack of comfort.

Buy: £109 baukjen.com

Skirt

Joan Didion liked to pack two skirts for any trip. This one will do its best to cover all eventualities. The black, navy and ivory ones might be most versatile.

Buy: £69 ghost.co.uk

Jeans

The classic 501, the cornerstone of any capsule wardrobe. Wear with anything, anywhere – from the theatre to the market, the football to the pub.

Buy: £100 levi.com

White shirt

The top-half equivalent of blue jeans, a classic white shirt – or a darker colour, if sticky toddler hands are a concern – will be a wardrobe workhorse.

Buy: £100 withnothingunderneath.com

Breton T-shirt

Versatile, easy and never going to look dated or as if you haven’t made an effort, a Breton-striped short sleeve T-shirt is a chic and timeless choice.

Buy: £85 sunspel.com

Denim shirt

Another item that won’t be work-shy, a denim shirt is practical and no-nonsense, but can also be dressed up. Pair with jeans for a very on-trend double-denim ensemble.

Buy: ££79 albaray.co.uk

Silky top

Even the most pared-back wardrobe needs a little playfulness – this silk cami top adds just that. Wear with jeans or a skirt, under a blazer or by itself.

Buy: £39 johnlewis.com

Crewneck jumper

The thought of only having one crewneck jumper might leave some people feeling cold, but a good quality layer, like this lamb’s wool one, will work for most eventualities.

Buy: £295 and-daughter.com

Dress

Polished, simple, but definitely not boring, this red dress will pop in a wardrobe cut back to the essentials. Made from heavyweight ponte jersey but with a tailored fit, it will be comfortable enough to sit in for hours, without losing its shape.

Buy: £250 meandem.com

White trainer

Again, a smart-casual classic makes O’Connor’s list. This leather pair will keep feet dry on days when a boot feels too much, but a slipper feels too little.

Buy: £85 superga.co.uk

Loafer

One of the five shoes on O’Connor’s list, a loafer can be understated and smart or, paired with a bright sock, full of fun and frivolity.

Buy: £275 russellandbromley.co.uk

Slingback kitten heel

Another of O’Connor’s five, and a chance to add a bit of pizazz to the sartorial bare bones with their slinky shape alone. This version also has a bit of disco-ball magic.

Buy: £35 marksandspencer.com

Lace-up boot

The bread-and-butter of any wardrobe, a lace-up black boot will, at least in a climate like the UK’s, be the most reached-for of all footwear.

Buy: £279 penelopechilvers.com

Ballet flat

While the ballet flat might not be everyone’s cup of tea, it is a modern-day staple. Relaxed with jeans or fancy with a dress, these OGs of the genre come in more than 30 colours and offer more structure than the flimsiest models.

Buy: £280 repetto.com